Pennsylvania’s craft beer scene is more than just hops and bubbles—it’s a rich tapestry of history, geography, and environmental artistry. With roots reaching back to the 17th century, the Keystone State’s brewing tradition has evolved into one of the most dynamic and diverse in the country. But what really sets Pennsylvania’s beer apart from the rest? The answer lies in a concept more often associated with wine than with ale: terroir.

Derived from the Latin terra, meaning “earth” or “land,” terroir refers to the unique combination of soil, climate, water, and even native organisms that shape the flavor and character of what’s grown—and ultimately, what’s brewed. While the term has long been embraced by winemakers, forward-thinking brewers are now recognizing its vital role in the art of craft beer, especially in places as naturally rich and varied as Pennsylvania.

A State Shaped by Nature

From the misty ridges of the Appalachian Mountains to the nutrient-rich soils of Amish farmland, Pennsylvania is a geographical patchwork of microclimates and ecosystems. Each of these regions contributes something distinct to the beers made there. The state’s diverse terrain influences everything from the growth of hops and barley to the quality of the water used in brewing. Even the local air carries wild yeasts and microflora that can affect the fermentation process, particularly in breweries that embrace traditional or experimental methods.

The Wild Side of Brewing: A Conversation with Strange Roots

To understand how terroir truly manifests in Pennsylvania’s craft beer, we spoke with Dennis Hock, owner and head brewer of Strange Roots Experimental Ales, a brewery known for pushing the boundaries of brewing through open fermentation and wild yeast experimentation. As Dennis puts it, “We exist at the intersection of farmhouse brewing tradition and creative, locally-driven experimentation.”

Open fermentation—one of Strange Roots’ specialties—is a process in which the beer is exposed to the air, allowing native yeasts and bacteria to work their magic. These wild organisms, carried on the breeze or clinging to nearby fruits and herbs, are unique to each place and even each season. “There’s magic in the barrel,” Dennis says. “It’s a biological symphony.”

One of the most fascinating tools in Strange Roots’ terroir-driven approach is the koelschip—a wide, shallow vessel traditionally used in Belgian brewing. After boiling, the hot wort is poured into the koelschip and left to cool naturally overnight. During this time, it is exposed to the ambient air, allowing wild yeasts and microbes from the local environment to inoculate the liquid. The result? A spontaneous fermentation that’s entirely unique to the location and even the weather that night. “You’re literally capturing your environment in a single batch,” says Dennis. “It’s beer that breathes with the land.”

At Strange Roots, terroir isn’t just about where the ingredients come from—it’s about how the local environment participates in the brewing process. In the early days, Dennis and his team would forage for wild yeast strains. Today, they forage for local fruits, spices, and other edible ingredients, always exploring what the Pennsylvania landscape has to offer. “Anything that is edible,” Dennis jokes, “we have tried to put in beer.”

More Like Wine Than Beer

These spontaneous and wild-fermented brews are more akin to wine than traditional beer. The influence of terroir is profound: each batch is completely unique, shaped by the ever-changing dance of microbes in the local environment. “Organisms change year over year,” says Dennis, “which changes the impact on the batches of beer. You can’t duplicate what’s being created using the environment around you.”

This uniqueness, while challenging to control, is part of what makes Pennsylvania’s terroir-driven beers so intriguing. They are living expressions of time and place—liquid postcards from a specific field, a certain season, a particular patch of wild yeast on the wind.

Terroir and Sustainability

Beyond flavor, terroir also has a role to play in the ethical and environmental aspects of brewing. By using locally grown ingredients and sourcing from nearby farms, Pennsylvania brewers can support the local economy and reduce the carbon footprint of transportation. This commitment to sustainability strengthens the connection between the beer and its origins, making each pint not just delicious, but also meaningful.

Raising a Glass to Place-Based Brewing

In an age where many products are mass-produced and globally uniform, Pennsylvania craft beer stands out for its authenticity and connection to the land. Terroir gives each beer a story—a sense of place that can’t be replicated anywhere else. Whether it’s a tart farmhouse ale infused with foraged fruit or a wild-fermented sour cooled in a mountain-air-kissed koelschip, the flavors coming out of Pennsylvania are as complex and captivating as the terrain that shapes them.

So the next time you take a sip of local craft beer, consider this: you’re not just tasting hops and malt. You’re tasting Pennsylvania.